Luisa Welch Restaurant Guru: DEGO' IS HERE - DEGUSTATION RESTAURANT

Luisa Welch Restaurant Guru: DEGO' IS HERE - DEGUSTATION RESTAURANT: "I dont get the time to write as much as I would like on my blog these days, but when I come across something as special as Dego' - I simply ..."

DEGO' IS HERE - DEGUSTATION RESTAURANT

I dont get the time to write as much as I would like on my blog these days, but when I come across something as special as Dego' - I simply have to make an exception.

Dego’ (with an accent on the o) and is at Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street, London W1V 8QJ Tel 020 7636 2207.

(2 minutes walk from Oxford Circus Tube).

It is a degustation restaurant Deg = degustation 0 = osteria. Osteria meant in the modern urban sense, not the old fashioned osteria with wooden tables and Chianti flasks hanging from the ceiling. Osteria in Italy is becoming a trendy word again, and in today’s urban Italian environment has come to mean a new interpretation of what in England we would call ‘wine bar’ – just far more sophisticated.

Behind the concept is a sommelier, Massimo Mioli, whose passion for good and unusual wines really shows on the wine list. He comes from a family of restaurateurs. Together with three partners who have also been his friends since childhood, they came to London and opened Dego’. The head chef is Dario Schiavo, young and highly talented, having already worked with Alain Ducasse and Gualtiero Marchesi. His food is quite different, both in texture, flavour combinations and style. His Suckling pig fillet with bacon served with steamed mixed vegetables and Barolo sauce is already a hit, but even something simple like chocolate ice cream tastes like velvety melted ganduja, because of the way it’s made. The food changes regularly, so if and when you go, these dishes may no longer be on the menu.

Massimo chooses the wines personally, and many are imported directly from Italy for Dego’. He is a lover of Franciacorta and takes great pleasure in explaining to customers the difference between Prosecco and Franciacorta. The Refosco from Pierpaolo Pecorari impressed me no end. Obviously coming from North East Italy, he has selected the best from the area, but you will also find the more unusual wines from the south, such as Pecorino and Falerno. He has even built a humidity controlled cellar to store his wines correctly.

Upstairs, Dego’ is a degustation bar, with many wines by the glass, all served in 125 cl for the perfect degustation experience, along with freshly cut salumi, blue goats cheese and burrata. They are also developing a ‘tramenizzeria’. (bit of a mouthful, literally), eg a place where you taste tramezzini, which are the dainty, crustless sandwiches you get in the best bars in Italy.

Downstairs is an a-la-carte restaurant and cocktail bar, with an even more extensive wine list. Based on Northern Italian food and taking its inspiration from the towns of Venice and Vicenza, the menu changes frequently to reflect the best and freshest market availability. Here, a big feature will be the ‘bigoli’, a hand made pasta from Vicenza which will be twisted at the table, before being cooked.

The décor is very sleek and elegant, styled around a red and black theme mixing lacquer, leather mosaics and soft textures on the wall for a really stunning effect. Wine buckets are inset into the tables for a striking effect, and the super modern, space-style lights add a touch of futuristic glamour.

The wine bar upstairs is open from 12 to 23.00 and the restaurant is open from 12 to 3.30 and 6 to midnight Monday to Thursday, and 6 to 0.30 Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday (but they might open for a few Sundays in the run up to Christmas, they are too new to gauge the demand for a Sunday opening just yet).

For the full wine list, current menu and more information you can also check www.degowinebar.co.uk (don’t be put off by the word wine bar, because it’s nothing like a wine bar).

MCMILLAN COFFEE MORNING 24 SEPTEMBER

It's that time of the year again, and the great idea of a coffee morning paying a few pennies for your coffee, donating the money to Mcmillan, has grown into an initiative which last year raised 7.8m in the UK alone.
This year the charity is aiming to raise £8m, so we need to drink a little more coffee.

And when the coffee is as good as you find it at Tossed, the healthier eating venue, this is no hardship. With a triple certification of organic, fairtrade and freshly roasted to order, this is a coffee to relish - whether you take it as an americano,a cappuccino or an expresso or even a latte if you really must. What Tossed are doing on the 24th is to offer coffee and a toastie for just £2.95 - an incredible bargain,a great way to eat healthily as the toasties are low fat and high protein, and raising money for McMillan. there are six Tossed venues in London at Westfield, St Martins Lane, Tottneham Court Road, Baker Street, PaddingtonCentral, and the new Mortimer Street. See you there!

BIRTHDAY OFFERS AT SPAGHETTI HOUSE

Hello everyone, starting today Spaghetti House if offering all pasta dishes at £1 - anythign from the delicious linguine con gamberoni which normally sells a t £11.95 to anything else is just £1. you book on line on www.spaghettihouse.co.uk and there are 55 dishes to be had at this price, at 5 of the main Spaghetti House restaurants, lunch and dinner, every day from 6 to 10 September. Whn it's gone it's gone, so book early, from 9 am every morning this week.
And from today until 30 September you can have any dish from the special anniversary menu at £5.55 each. When you eat from this menu, you are given a voucher for £5.55 to come back another time. Not bad for an offer, tell your friends

BAR BOULUD: NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED (THANK GOODNESS)

Braving yet another rainstorm, I made my way to Knightbridge for a meal I had been looking forward to for sometime: Bar Boulud at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. With its own entrance from the street, the feeling is sheer luxury, but in a relaxed way. It's just so good to be welcomed by people who seem genuinely pleased to see you. Pre- bank holiday, and the bar was buzzing, full to the brim, with people eating at the bar from the bar menu and at the informal bar tables. I loved the bar, which is a spectacle per se. A spray perfume bottle contains vermouth, with which the glass is sprayed to make the driest martini, and there is also a jar of olive brine for a dirty martini, and all sorts of other little containers. The barman is a mine of information too. House champagne is Ayala, delightfully dry and crisp. Simple nuts are served, but the mixture is the best, salty and sweet, for a great flavour. Moving onto the restaurant, this is everything I would want from a dining room. The kitchen in full view, so that I see what's going on but I dont hear anything. Tables large enough not to have to push the salt and pepper on the edge. Chairs and banquettes which are actually comfortable. Then in walks the lovely Brian Turner OBE, one of my favourite chefs, probably just back from South Africa, with a great tan and looking very fit - the new slimmer line figures really suits him. He is here too, good sign. We say hello, so nice to see him. The menu is very well conceived, with sharing dishes, hot and cold appetizers, and the famous cured meat board. Good to see a meat slicer, meaning that everything is freshly sliced for the best flavour. The board offers not just sliced meats, but press' of rabbit, and a sausage tasting. We opt for the small portion of seafood and share that: delicately blanched cauliflower, carrot and haricot verts, accompany a plump scallop, mussels and cockles. Freshly steamed, served with aioli, a perfect start to the meal, and we have a glass of Picpoul de Pinet to accompany this. Wonderful to see some of the more unusual regional French wines on a wine list, which incidentally is very extensive and I love it. Shame that my favourite Washington State Pinot Noir is no longer on the list,there is only the one from Oregon, so we opt for something else to go with the rest of the meal. Attention-grabbing is the Givry, at £66, but in the we opt for the complex and delicious Rasteau 2006 at around £39. The wonderful spiciness of the Mourvedre comes through, mitigated by the richness of the Syrah aged in oak, giving the wine a slight woody sweetness. A good choice. My Beetroot salad starter with mixed leaves and blanched fennel, with Sardinian caprino, tossed in a flavoursome dressing, is so complex and interesting that I relish every mouthful. My companion's sausage starter - there is a whole sausage section on the menu, in true Daniel Boulud style - looks great and smells divine. Mains see my favourite lamb arrive, saddle and leg, cooked to perfection and beautifully assembled. The other starter is the most massive pot of moules marinieres I have ever seen. I taste one. Plump, juicy, delicately flavoured, a real treat. The signature chips, served in paper and presented in a silver pot, also arrive. We share a simple bitter chocolate torte with caramel ice cream for dessert (which we dont really need but we cannot resist) is bitter-sweet and almost digestive. Another good choice. I give this restaurant 99 out of 100, and although I have been fortunate enough to eat in some splendid establishments (Capital Hotel and Waterside Inn will forever be imbedded in my mind) this one is a place I would like to return sooner than later. I absolutely loved it and I do recommed it. The food is quite affordable and they also have a set menu at around £22.50 I think, but the wine is quite expensive. But many wines come by the glass, so if you choose carefully, you dont have to go overbudget. Thank you for coming to London, Daniel Boulud!

CRAYFISH FESTIVAL TO CHECK OUT

It's Kräftskiva time...Right now the Kräftskiva/Crayfish party season is in full swing in Sweden. The crayfish menu starts on Thursday, August 26 and runs to Saturday, September 18. They will be stocking lots of Swedish Nils Oscar beer, OP Anderson and Skåne Akvavits. The crayfish menu can be ordered for parties down to 4 people, as long as you give them minimum 48 hours notice.
This year the menu features both dill and cumin marinated crayfish, herring with potatoes, smoked salmon canapes, Västebotten cheese with Peter's yard crisp bread and mushroom quiche. You can find the full menu on their website.
To book please write an email to reservations@madsenrestaurant.com - remember to mention you are interested in the crayfish party.

ANNUAL KEN HOM LECTURE WITH CHERIE BLAIR

Annual Ken Hom Lecture 2010
organised by
Ken Hom in conversation with Cherie Blair
The value of social entrepreneurship
Thursday 16th September 2010 at 6:30pm
There is no charge to attend the lecture
Main Lecture Theatre - Oxford Brookes University
Headington Campus, Gypsy Lane
Oxford OX3 0BP
Lecture will be followed by a drinks and canapés
reception in Brookes Restaurant in aid of the Cherie
Blair Foundation for Women.
£20 per head - entry by ticket only
It is our pleasure to invite you to this
year’s Ken Hom Lecture on the
evening of Thursday 16th September.
Cherie Blair, founder of the Cherie
Blair Foundation for Women, will
reflect on the power of social
entrepreneurship to transform the lives
of those in developing nations.
We have no doubt that this will be a
very special occasion; one that we
hope you will be part of.
There is no charge to attend the
lecture, but it is essential to book in
advance. Please contact Razia Nabi
(oxfordgastronomica@brookes.ac.uk
tel. 01865 483813) to reserve your
place.
We hope to see you on 16th September 2010.
With best wishes
Ken Hom
Patron, Oxford Gastronomica
Donald Sloan
Chair, Oxford Gastronomica
To book contact Razia Nabi
oxfordgastronomica@brookes.ac.uk
tel. 01865 483813

TORRENTIAL RAINS RUIN NORTH ITALY'S 2010 VINTAGE

Just back from Piedmont,where people were not really celebrating Ferragosto (15 August) this year. This is a tradition not just in Piedmont but all over Italy, it's the biggest Bank Holiday when everyone who is not on holiday already will leave town (as it's usually too hot to do anything) and go to the nearest open space, whether that be the cooler hills, the mountains, a beach or, in Piedmont, by a river. By the way, the trouts are just gorgeous, and we have a neighbour who is a keen fisherman who often shares the catch with my mother and I when I go home. Anyway, this is a story for another time maybe. Back to Ferragosto, and this year the weather went from 35 degrees one day to 15 degrees the next, with torrential rains, monsoons, hail and high winds. And it lasted for four days. Grape picking is only two weeks away, and I have heard some horror stories already, in how some of the best grapes, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, have been damanged, up to 50% will be lost. Prices are likely to soar next year so stock up on this year's wines from Piedmont (and Lombardy) as next year they will not be so abundant. But it's not all doom and gloom. Bonarda was less affected, and this lesser known wine, which often develops a natural second fermantion in bottle, making it very attractive to drink and beautiful with strong cheeses such as Castelmagno DOP or Gorgonzola Dolce DOP, is still available. The grape has also found a new home in Argentina, where it makes a much 'stronger' and stiller version of the original wine produced in Piedmont, and you will find some very decent Bonarda at Gaucho Grill. But it has nothing to do with the equally heady, but rounder, Bonarda from Piedmont. I do remain concerned about Nebbiolo though.

FIND ME THE COURGETTE FLOWERS PLEASE

One of the joys of travelling to Italy is shopping at the many local food markets, and finding all those gorgeous foods hard to get over here. One of them is courgette flowers. Occasionally you can find them at Harrods or at some of the best farmers markets, I think I once bought a few at La Fromagerie in Moxon Street. But at what price! So I always buy them in summer, when I am in Italy, where they are plentiful, cheap and available from mos farmers' market stalls.

You never wash them, you just gently clean them with kitchen paper, and then make a light batter of beaten egg, milk, flour and sea salt (just a pinch). You fry them gently in sunflower oil and that's it, angels dance on your tongue.

If the flowers are just ever so slightly past their peek, you gently cut them and use them in an omelette, either on their own or with sliced baby courgettes previously cooked. I cook the courgettes in the microwave for just a couple of minutes for best results when used to make an omelette.

A courgette flower omelette is the ultimate FERRAGOSTO dish, to take on a picnic. Because 15 August is FERRAGOSTO, the day that everyone eats al fresco in Italy. Bit like a Bank Holiday, but with lots of food!

SHAKE IT AT SHAKA (ZULU)

Oh what a night! I dont really know how to describe the opening night (for us mortals) at Shaka Zulu, tipped as London's hottest restaurant - hot, it was. Or sometimes extremely cold, depending on whether you caught a blast of air conditioning or not. The queues around the block reminded me of the queues at the Seashell in Lisson Grove - oops, perhaps I should be more trendy and say the queues outside the Hard Rock Cafe'. But when I was young(er) and used to go to the Seashell, the waiters used to come out and give tastings of chips, morsels of fish and other goodies to those in the queues, who would continue to faithfully queue until a table became available. That was PR! Shaka Zulu, you missed trick No. 1! Maybe peanuts are not very typical of South Africa, but a few peanuts at the free (for a time) bar would have helped a lot. Interior wise, this place is absolutely stunning and well worth all the delays they faced when waiting for the statues, the carvings, the walls, to arrive. It is amazing. Should I say this? But it reminded me of central part of Westfield London, where you are on the floor above and you look down into the atrium if you know what I mean. This architectural feature makes the most of the natural height of the building, and there is even an up and down escalator, shopping centre style! Cant wait to go back and see the whole thing in daylight - if there is any daylight, I presume so as the facade is all glass. Really, would love to see it in daylight.
The drinks were gorgeous, very good sparkling South African wine, decent still white wine, and the cocktails looked very interesting. But the queues were far too long. A journalist friend of mine gave up after queuing for half an hour and eventually left without having had a single drink or anything to eat at all. Missed trick No. 2: if you invite 800 people to fill the place, limit the drinks to sparkling and still wine, beer and maybe ONE cocktail (prepared in big batches) if you really want to showcase the cocktail making skill of the barmen (gorgeous staff by the way, and very skilled). But because they did things so well and so properly, every cocktail took 15 minutes to make and this is not on at an opening of this scale. Wish I could tell you about the food dear friends, but I can't - they didnt feed me, or any of the mortals upstairs. The super-mortals who got to do downstairs and share a meal with King Goodwill will have to tell me all about it. At midnight though, some little canapes came out, and I could not help by wonder, are these the left overs? But by that time I was too hungry to care, so I had one deep fried prawn (tail, shell, eyes and all, like a whitebait but it was a fully fledged prawn - not the prettiest of sights) and a skewer of what could have been ostrich meat - very tasty, but on the sweet side, maybe brushed with a honey marinade? South African cuisine is not a cuisine I am very familiar with as yet, but I intend to rectify that sooner than later.
The highlight? Seeing King Goodwill and his wife, what an absolutely charming man, very regal in every sense. And the zulu players, these guys played non-stop for hours, it was mesmerising rather than boring, they must have a hidden code of how one can take a quiet break whilst the other two make more noise, so that it still sounds like three people are drumming and singing. Because it is simply not humanly possible to keep up the beat and the singing for two hours solid. Great bodies too, by the way!
The downlight? For a first night, and of such a scale, I think Shaka Zulu did very well. And maybe they were right to serve nothing to the mere mortals. To serve morsels to the masses may not have achieved the purpose of showcasing Zulu cuisine, which is still largely unknown over here, people may not have understood it.

I am interested in the food. So, anyone willing to join me for food at Shaka Zulu?

I remain unsure of which crowd they are aiming at. Camden party people? Will they spend the money or will they just dance? Will Amy Winehouse become a regular? This place is practically on her doorstep.